Hyperbolic plane
Foundation row: Ch 21, turn.
Rows 1-15 (or more): Work (1 sc in each of next 3 stitches, increase in next stitch) across. Ch 1, turn.
For great effect, work one final row in contrast yarn. Fasten off.
We call this "n=4" because you're increasing in every 4th stitch. You can make a larger piece by starting with ch 31 and increasing every 6th stitch. If you prefer dc, increase in every 2nd or 3rd stitch.
Pseudosphere
Photos above are of the same sphere. At top, it is laid flat and looks like restaurant garnish. At bottom, the center is poked down and the outer row rises to look like brain coral.
Foundation: ch 4, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.
Round 1: ch 1, 6 sc in the ring (or whatever works with your yarn); ch 1.
Rounds 2-15 (or more): Work (3 sc in each of next 3 stitches, increase in next stitch) around. Work at least 18 rounds. At least 15-20 rounds are needed for full convolution. Fasten off.
This basic pattern creates a pseudosphere for n=4 (inc in each 4th st.) Vary your n as desired. Increasing every 2nd stitch makes a compact ball quickly.
Add a picot trim (ch 3 between each sc) in the last row or 2 to create more ruffle.
Coil / Corkscrew / Curlicue / Fingerling
Row 1: Crochet a chain that is twice as long (maybe a little extra) as you want the finished coil.
Row 2: Sl st in 2nd chain from hook. Work 3 sc in each chain across. At the end, sl st into the chain of the previous coil. Fasten off.
Variations:
Work another row, maybe in another color, of 2 sc in each stitch across.
Work in dc for a longer, wider, looser look.
Vary your stitches around the coil (sc to hdc to dc to tr and down again) to alter the widths.
Make a round base (2-3 rounds) and work one coil out of each sc in base. At the end of each coil, sl st into the next base sc to begin another coil. On a large base (think jellyfish), sc into several base stiches between coils/legs.
For tendrils, work 2 sc in 1st several stitches. When you have enough of a coil started, continue with 1 sc in each ch. To keep them straighter at the stem, chain out in one hook size larger than the one you use to crochet back.
Be Adventurous
Many coral forms do not follow hyperbolic growth patterns. Experiment with sea fans, sea rods, tube sponges, and more!
(L to R): Manta ray, starfish, hermit crab in a conch shell
Sea rods -- range from 22" - 35" tall.
Starfish
Round 1: Ch 6; join to first ch with sl st to form a ring.
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc); work approx 2 dc in each ch for a total of 12 dc. Join to top of initial ch 3.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc); work approx 2 dc in each ch for a total of 25 dc. Join to top of initial ch 3.
Round 4: Make a star arm:
*Ch 16. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, work: 1 sl st, 3 sc, 3 hdc, 3 dc, 3 trc, 2 qc (quad). Sl st in top of 5th and 6th dc in previous round.
Repeat from * 4 more times for a total of 5 star arms. End last arm with one sl st.
Round 5: *Work 1 sc in each st up the star arm; work 2 sc in turning chain at top of arm; work 1 sc in each st down the star arm. Work 1 sc in the "elbow" st between arms or, if you have 2 sts in the elbow, work them tog (draw up a loop in one st, draw up a loop in next st, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops). Continue from * for each star arm. End with sl st in 1st sc.
© 2011 Denise Beaubien Bennett
Sea anemones / pillars
To make pillars, start at the bottom with a pancake:
Round 1: Ch 4, join with slip stitch to 1st chain to form a ring. Work 4 sc into ring.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc (total 8 sc).
Round 3: Work 2 sc in each sc (total 16 sc).
Round 4: * Work 1 sc in next sc, work 2 sc in next sc; continue from * around (total 24 sc).
To form sides, work even: 1 sc in each sc (total 24 sc) and continue until you reach the desired length.
Stop and stuff the pillar (with cardboard circles, fiberfill/pillow stuffing, or a plastic object) and then begin to decrease.
Decrease round 1: *Work 1 sc in each of 2 sc, work next 2 sc together; continue from * around (total 18 sc).
Decrease round 2: *Work 1 sc in next sc, work next 2 sc together; continue from * around (total 12 sc).
Decrease round 3: *Work 2 sc together; continue from * around (total 6 sc). Slip stitch in 3rd stitch from hook. Cut yarn, draw through remaining loop, and tuck away.
Variations: change the diameter or height of your pillar.
To make a larger starting pancake, keep adding the same number of stitches in each round, such as
[Round 5: * Work 1 sc in each of next 2 sc, work 2 sc in next sc;
Round 6: * Work 1 sc in each of next 3 sc, work 2 sc in next sc; etc.]
To change the shape, try increasing or decreasing a few stitches in relevant rows. Lots of trial and error here!
To make a tapered pillar, work more rounds (at least 6, depending on thickness of yarn) of a starting pancake.
Next 2 rounds: work even.
Next round: decrease 4 stitches evenly around. To decrease: draw up a loop in one stitch, draw up a loop in the next stitch, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Next 4 rounds: work even.
Next round: decrease 4 stitches evenly around.
Next 4 rounds: work even.
Next round: decrease 4 stitches evenly around.
Stop and stuff the pillar before the opening gets too small!
Next 2 rounds: work even.
Next round: decrease 4 stitches evenly around.
Continue as needed to achieve the desired shape. Stop and stuff before the final 2 rows -- be sure to end pancake-like rather than pointy.
Tube Sponge
A tube sponge is composed of several tubes, a base top that is dome-shaped, and a base bottom that is pancake-shaped.
For each tube: Ch 14, join with slip stitch to first chain to form a ring. Work one sc in each ch around. Continue working even, one sc in each sc, for desired length of pillar. Work last round in a different color -- try a smaller hook to draw the top in. Vary your starting chain (12 or 16 ch) to make pillars of varying circumferences. Make about 12.
For the base top:
Ch 6, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.
Round 1: 1 sc in each ch.
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc.
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 18 sc.
Round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 24 sc.
Round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 30 sc.
Round 6: work even (30 sts)
Round 7: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 36 sc.
Round 8: *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 42 sc.
Round 9: *1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 48 sc.
Round 10: *1 sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 54 sc.
Round 11: work even (54 sts)
Round 12: *1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 60 sc.
Round 13: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 66 sc.
Round 14: *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 72 sc.
End off.
For the base bottom:
Ch 6, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring.
Round 1: 1 sc in each ch.
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc.
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 18 sc.
Round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 24 sc.
Round 3: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around; end 30 sc.
Work in pattern (increasing 6 sts in each round) for 12 rounds (72 sc). End off.
Finishing:
With yarn (blunt) needle, sew each tube onto the base top. Match the base bottom (facing top down) to the base top, and sl st the bottom and top together about 3/4 of the way around. Stop and lightly stuff the base. Continue in sl st to close the base. Stuff the tubes about 1/2 to 2/3 full.
© 2011 Denise Beaubien Bennett
